Postupice is a straggling village in the hills east of Benešov, the kind of place where the church tower is the tallest thing for miles and the pub is the second most important building. Around it the Posázaví uplands fold into small valleys with ponds in the bottoms and woods on the crests, and the roads between the hamlets climb and drop in short, satisfying pulls.
The high ground here is not dramatic, but it gives you a long look across Central Bohemia. On a clear evening you can pick out wooded ridges in every direction, and to the south-east the twin humps of the Blaník hills. Velký Blaník holds one of the best-loved Czech legends: inside the mountain, so the story goes, sleeps an army of knights led by Saint Wenceslas, waiting to ride out and save the nation in its darkest hour. Plenty of Czechs will tell you, with a wry smile, that the knights have overslept on several occasions.
Closer at hand, Konopiště, just outside Benešov, was the country seat of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, whose assassination in Sarajevo in 1914 set off the First World War. The chateau is stuffed with his hunting trophies, many thousands of them, and its park and rose garden make a pleasant break if you are passing.
The riding is quiet and twisty in a low-key way. Lanes are narrow, often bumpy and patched, with blind crests and the odd farm dog that considers motorcycles a personal insult. Traffic is light enough that you can relax into it. Late in the day, with low sun raking across the fields and the smell of hay in the air, this is Bohemian back-country at its most likeable.