Higashijima means eastern island, and like its relatives in the Ogasawara chain it sits in the middle of the Pacific, around a thousand kilometres south of Tokyo and at the end of one of the longest regular ferry runs in Japan. No road leads to it, and nobody rides there. What it offers is a glimpse of one of the world's most isolated natural laboratories, seen from a boat on a good day.
The reefs that surround these islands are the reason for the heritage listing. Corals grow here at the northern limit of their range, nourished by warm currents, and the water is clear enough that snorkellers can see the bottom from the surface. Hawksbill and green turtles come to nest on certain beaches, and the sea is alive with reef fish, rays and the occasional shark. Winter brings humpback whales that pass close enough to the boats for you to hear their breath.
On land, the story is one of endemic species. Snails, beetles and trees evolved here separately from anywhere else, and invasive animals brought by settlers, such as goats, cats and rats, have taken a heavy toll. Much recent conservation effort has gone into removing those pests and protecting what remains. The Bonin flying fox and the Bonin honeyeater, once found on these islands, are examples of how fragile the balance can be.
The main port of the inhabited area is Futami on Chichijima, and you reach it after a ferry trip of about twenty-four hours from Tokyo. The ferry sails only a few times a month, so visitors usually stay for several days. There is fuel on the main island for rented scooters, plus small restaurants and guesthouses. Book early, bring motion sickness tablets, and treat the schedule as a suggestion because weather decides everything.