Outside the great medieval walls of Ávila, down by the river Adaja, a small Romanesque church stands among trees, quiet and often overlooked by the crowds heading for the walls and the cathedral. The Hermitage of San Segundo is dedicated to the first bishop of Ávila, according to tradition one of seven early missionaries sent to Spain, and it holds an alabaster statue of the saint at prayer, carved in the sixteenth century by the sculptor Juan de Juni. The building itself is simple and austere, with a beautiful carved doorway, and it is a lovely, peaceful place to visit. It is part of the UNESCO listing of the Old Town of Ávila with its Extra-Muros Churches.
Ávila is best known for its walls, the most complete medieval circuit in Spain, with dozens of towers and nine gates, built from the late eleventh century onwards. Walking along the top of the walls, with views over the rooftops of the city and the plain, is the highlight of any visit. The city is also the birthplace of Saint Teresa of Ávila, the mystic and reformer of the Carmelite order, and the convent built on the site of her birthplace, along with the monastery of the Incarnation where she lived for many years, attracts pilgrims from around the world. The best view of the walls is from the Cuatro Postes, a small monument on a hill across the river, especially at sunset, when the stone glows gold.
The riding around Ávila is varied. The city stands on a high plateau, more than eleven hundred metres above sea level, and the plain around it is open and windswept, with long straight roads and wide views. To the south, the Sierra de Gredos rises steeply, with granite peaks, forests and rivers, and the roads that cross it, such as the Puerto del Pico, are some of the best in central Spain, with tight bends, steep climbs and views over the mountains. Snow can close the passes in winter.
Ávila, a city of over fifty thousand people, has fuel, shops and restaurants. The local food is hearty, with chuletón de Ávila, huge beef steaks from the local black cattle, and judías del Barco, large white beans from El Barco de Ávila. The yemas de Santa Teresa, small sweets made from egg yolks and sugar, are a local speciality. The weather is continental, with hot summers and cold winters.