Bowness-on-Solway is the western end of Hadrian's Wall, a quiet village on a low headland above the estuary, and Herd Hill lies a little farther along the shore on the Cardurnock peninsula. Roman engineers built the wall to Bowness, where the fort of Maia stood, and then continued the defences south along the Cumbrian coast with milefortlets and towers. The northern watchtower on this hill was one of the chain that watched across the water to Scotland, at a place where the Solway is narrow enough to be forded at low tide.
A few kilometres east, at Burgh by Sands, stands a monument to a different event. King Edward I, the Hammer of the Scots, died here in July 1307, camped on the marsh on his way north to another campaign against Robert the Bruce, and his body was carried south. The monument, a tall stone column, stands in a field with a view over the marsh. The medieval church at Burgh was fortified against raiders, and its thick-walled tower tells of the troubled borderland.
Today, the Hadrian's Wall Path, a national trail, ends at Bowness, and walkers pass through with blistered feet and big smiles. The Solway Coast National Landscape is rich in birds, and the marsh grass shimmers in the wind. Annan, across the firth, has fuel and shops, but by road you will use Carlisle or Silloth, and the village of Bowness has a pub and a couple of cafés. Check the opening hours, since services can be limited out of season.
The roads here are flat, narrow and often empty, with sea views and occasional farm vehicles. Wind can be strong, and rain can sweep in from the Irish Sea, so pack accordingly. Spring and autumn bring the best skies, and the sunsets over the Scottish hills are famous. Tidal flooding sometimes covers the lowest road near Port Carlisle, so check conditions before setting out. A pot of tea by the water, with oystercatchers calling, sums up the pace of the place.