Henningsvær is a fishing village scattered over a few small islands off the south coast of Austvågøya in the Lofoten Islands, and it is often called the Venice of Lofoten, though a better comparison would be a sheltered harbour with bridges and a big mountain looking over its shoulder. The houses stand on stilts at the water's edge, the old fish factories and warehouses line the quay, and the jagged peak of Vågakallen rises behind. In winter the racks outside are hung with cod to dry in the cold air, as they have been for a thousand years, and the smell of that trade is part of the place. The cod fishery here begins in January and runs until April, and it is the reason Lofoten was settled at all.
The village has a few unusual things to show. One is the football pitch, laid on a rocky outcrop with the sea on all sides, a sight that appears in photographs from above all over the world. Another is the climbing: the steep rock walls around the village are well known among climbers, and the harbour area holds galleries, small cafés and the odd bookshop. In summer it is busy, with tourists strolling the lanes and cafés spilling onto the water.
The road to get there is a side road, Fv816, which leaves the main E10 and runs for about fifteen kilometres across low bridges and between small hills, with the sea on either side. It is a pleasant, easy ride, with mild bends and good views, though the wind can be strong. Traffic is heavy in summer, with campervans and coaches, and the village has narrow lanes with little parking. Come early or late in the day, and keep to the speed limit, which is low and watched. Winter brings snow and ice, and the days are very short.
Fuel is not available in the village. Svolvær, the main town on the island, has pumps and supermarkets, and Kabelvåg, on the way, also has some services. Eat fish: fresh cod, stockfish stew, or fish soup. Rooms book out in summer, so book ahead, and carry a windproof layer at any season, because the weather turns quickly in the islands.