Helmeringhausen is hardly a village at all: a hotel, a farm, a few outbuildings and a lot of sky, set on the gravel road that runs along the edge of the Namib in southern Namibia. It was founded as a farm in the early twentieth century by German settlers who named it after their home village in Germany, and it has changed little since. A small farm museum beside the hotel displays old wagons, ploughs and household objects, giving a picture of what life was like for early settlers in this dry land.
The area is rugged and full of distances. Red dunes and open plains give way to rocky hills and the occasional stand of quiver trees, strange aloes that look like something drawn by Dr Seuss. Not far away stands Duwisib Castle, a fortress-like mansion built in 1909 by a German officer, Hansheinrich von Wolf, with stones hauled from far off and furnishings brought by ox wagon, and now a quirky museum in the middle of nowhere. Distances here are larger than they look on the map, and a stop at the hotel for a cold drink and a slice of cake can be a lifeline.
The D707 is one of the great gravel roads of Namibia, running through a country of grassy plains, rocky outcrops and dune fields at the foot of the Namib-Naukluft. Surfaces are generally graded but can be corrugated or sandy, and loose gravel on bends requires a steady hand. Wildlife is plentiful, with oryx, springbok and ostrich often seen near the road. Sunrise and sunset paint the landscape in warm tones, and the wind can be strong in the afternoon.
Fuel is the thing to plan. There may be a pump at Helmeringhausen, but supplies in remote places are not guaranteed, so do not rely on it, and carry enough to reach the next sure stop. Aus, a long way south, and Solitaire, to the north, are the places with regular supplies. The hotel has a restaurant, bar and basic rooms, as well as a campsite, and it is a popular overnight stop for travellers on the route. Book in advance in the busy season, bring water, and keep a spare tube and tools.