Hells Canyon is the deepest river gorge in North America, cut by the Snake River between Oregon and Idaho, and it is deeper than the Grand Canyon, though far less visited and far less famous. Across the gulf, the Seven Devils range in Idaho tilts up to more than 2,400 metres, nearly eight thousand feet above the river. What strikes you is the lack of a crowd. A couple of other vehicles in the car park and a lot of silence is normal.
The Snake here has been tamed by three dams, Brownlee, Oxbow and Hells Canyon, built by a power company in the mid-twentieth century. The reservoirs lie in the canyon floor like long green ribbons, and the hydropower they produce is an important part of the regional economy. Below the lowest dam the river returns to wild water, with rapids and a protected corridor. The canyon walls are layered with basalt, in grassy slopes with a scattering of ponderosa pine and juniper, and in spring they are green and in late summer they are the colour of lions.
The riding up to a canyon overlook is worth more than the destination. The roads here are quiet, mostly paved and sometimes gravel, with a mix of long climbs, tight bends and sudden views. It is a ride that rewards a relaxed rider, and the lack of traffic means you can take it slowly. Be aware of cattle, deer, and loose gravel on corners. Summer heat is intense in the canyon bottoms, and snow can block the high roads from late autumn into spring. The Nez Perce knew this country as home and hunting ground, and the whole region is part of the story of their homeland.
There are no services at the overlook. Fuel is available at Halfway and in Joseph and Enterprise on the Oregon side, and at small towns in Idaho on the other, but opening hours are limited and the distances are long, so fill up whenever you can. Take water, food and a good map, because mobile coverage is poor and help is far away. Evening light on the canyon is magnificent.