Hella is a small town in southern Iceland, on the banks of the Ytri-Rangá river, about a hundred kilometres east of Reykjavik on Route 1, and it is the place where most riders go to get ready for the interior. Its population is a few hundred, but it serves a wide farming district of horse studs, sheep, barley fields and greenhouses heated by geothermal water. Looming to the north-east, on a clear day, is Hekla, the volcano that medieval Europeans called the gateway to hell. It rises to nearly 1,500 metres, has erupted many times, and last did so in 2000, when it gave only a few hours of warning.
The river here is famous for salmon, and a few caves carved by hand into the soft sandstone nearby are some of the oldest human-made structures in Iceland, probably dug by Irish monks or early settlers, though no one is sure. To the west, the Þjórsá, at some 230 kilometres the longest river in the country, runs down from the highlands in a broad, grey torrent. The land is flat and green, with the occasional black lava rock showing through, and the horses graze beside the road.
For a rider, Hella is the start of the Sprengisandur road, one of the great highland tracks of Iceland, which crosses the interior between the Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull glaciers to the north. The route is classed as an F-road, which means it is rough, unbridged in places and open only for a short season, usually from late June to September, depending on snow. Rivers must be forded, the surface is volcanic gravel and sand, and it is no place for a road bike. A heavy adventure machine with experienced riders and good planning can do it, but weather and river levels decide the day. Check conditions with the road administration before leaving.
Fuel is available in Hella, and the sensible thing is to fill the tank and carry extra, because there is none at all in the interior. Selfoss, about thirty kilometres west, is the larger town for supplies and repairs. Buy food and water here, and eat well in the café before you go. The wind can be strong, so keep a firm grip, and enjoy the smell of wet grass and sheep as you leave the farms behind.