The first thing you notice in Heiligenhafen is the smell, a mix of diesel, salt and smoked fish that tells you the harbour is still working. A small fleet of cutters ties up along the quay, and in the morning you may see men sorting the catch of herring, cod and flatfish before it goes to the fish shops and the stalls. The harbour sits at the end of a peninsula that pushes out into the Baltic, and the town spreads around it, with a seafront promenade, a long pier and a marina full of sailing boats.
Fish is what to eat here, and it is simple. A smoked mackerel or herring from a stand, a Fischbrötchen with pickled herring or fried fish, or a plate of fresh plaice with fried potatoes in a harbourside restaurant are all fine choices, and the prices are fair. In the right season, the local speciality is smoked eel, though it divides opinion. Ice cream is available on every corner, and a coffee on a terrace by the water is a pleasure, though gulls will do their best to steal your lunch.
Just outside town is a nature reserve of real value, the Graswarder, a long, low spit of sand, shingle and grass that curves out into the sea. It is a breeding and resting place for terns, avocets and other seabirds, and the lagoon behind it holds waders in migration. Access is limited during the breeding season in spring and summer, and it is worth keeping to the signed paths. In the distance, to the east, the great arch of the Fehmarn Sound Bridge rises over the water, linking the mainland to the island of Fehmarn.
The roads in are flat and relaxed, crossing farmland with wide skies and the sea glinting at the edge of view. In summer the town is very busy, and traffic along the coast road can be slow, so a weekday or an early start makes the day easier. Heiligenhafen has about nine thousand people, so fuel stations, supermarkets and plenty of cafés and restaurants are all on hand. Parking a bike near the harbour is usually possible, though the quay cobbles are slippery with spray. Wind can make a cool day cold, so a windproof layer is wise.