The highest point you can reach on a paved road in Taiwan is at Wuling, close to Hehuanshan, and the pass is at 3,275 metres, which puts you above the treeline in an island that most people think of as tropical. The road, part of the Central Cross-Island route, climbs from the lowlands of Puli through terraced farms and cloud forest onto an alpine plateau of grass and dwarf bamboo, with bare peaks rising on either side. It feels a long way from the night markets and convenience stores of the plains.
The mountain is a place of weather. Clouds pour over the saddle, the wind blows hard, and in winter the area can receive snow, which draws crowds of visitors from the cities who rarely see it. At sunrise the clouds sometimes fill the valleys below like a sea, with peaks rising from them like islands, and watching it from the roadside is a memorable way to start the day. Taiwan's mountains are among the steepest in the world, still rising by centimetres a year, and the slopes here show it in landslide scars and exposed rock. The vegetation is hardy, with bamboo grass, alpine azalea and stands of Taiwan fir, and in early summer azaleas flower across the hillside.
Riding up is a joy: long climbs through bends and switchbacks, big views over the valley, cool air and few vehicles on weekday mornings. But take care. Fog, wind and cold rain can arrive within minutes, and ice can form on the road in winter, when chains or closures may be imposed, so check conditions locally. Temperatures at the top can sit close to freezing even when the lowlands are warm, so bring proper layers and gloves. Landslides sometimes close sections of the road, particularly after typhoons or earthquakes.
Fuel is not available on the pass. Puli, about thirty-six kilometres below, is the nearest large town, with petrol stations and restaurants, and Hualien City lies on the other side, so fill the tank before you climb and carry some snacks. There is usually a small shop or two at the top selling hot drinks, instant noodles and souvenirs, and the hot tea is welcome.
Altitude can make you light-headed if you rush, so take a few minutes at the top and breathe slowly.