Hamadan is one of the oldest cities in the world still lived in, and the hill at its heart is the site of Ecbatana, the capital of the Medes in the seventh century BC. The Greek historian Herodotus described the city as a series of seven concentric walls in different colours, with the royal treasure within the innermost, and later it became the summer capital of the Achaemenid kings, who came here to escape the heat of Persepolis and Susa. The mound, called Hegmataneh, is a low, wide hill within the modern city, and the excavations have revealed mud-brick walls and foundations, with a small museum on the site. It takes imagination to see the ancient city, but the place is a good introduction to the layers of Iranian history.
Hamadan stands at a height of about 1,800 metres, at the foot of Mount Alvand, a granite peak that rises above the city and holds snow into early summer. The air is cool, the summer is mild and winters are cold, which is why kings came here. Nearby, the Ganjnameh, a pair of inscriptions carved into the rock face by Darius and Xerxes, record in three languages their names and lineage. The tomb of Avicenna, the philosopher and physician, stands in the city centre, a modern monument that draws visitors from across the country.
Bisotun, the other half of this ride, lies on the road to the west, where a huge cliff carries the great relief and inscription of Darius I, the key to the decipherment of cuneiform. The landscape between them is a high plateau of wheat fields and walnut orchards.
Riding in Iran needs preparation, and the rules for foreign visitors, the paperwork for vehicles and the situation on the ground can change. Check current advice and permits before you plan a journey. In the city, traffic is dense and driving is assertive. Fuel stations are plentiful in Hamadan, Āzādshahr and the neighbouring towns, and the bazaar is a good place for a kebab and tea. Spring and autumn are the best seasons.