Hebron, al-Khalil in Arabic, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the Middle East, set in the hills of the southern West Bank. Its heart is the old town, a warren of stone alleys, covered souqs and Mamluk-era houses, grouped around the great mosque built over the Cave of the Patriarchs, where tradition places the tombs of Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and their wives. The site is holy to Muslims, Jews and Christians, and its name in Arabic, al-Khalil, means the friend, a reference to Abraham as the friend of God.
The Old Town was inscribed by UNESCO in 2017 and immediately placed on the list of World Heritage in Danger, which says much about the situation. Hebron is a divided city, with Israeli settlements in and around the old town and a heavy military presence, and parts of the centre are closed to Palestinians, including Shuhada Street, once the main commercial street. Visiting means passing through checkpoints and encountering tension that can flare quickly. Many visitors come with a local guide or organised tour, which is wise.
The old souq is atmospheric but quieter than it once was, with many shops closed and nets strung above some alleys to catch rubbish thrown from settler buildings above. The surviving shops sell the products for which Hebron has been famous for centuries: blown glass in deep blues and greens, painted ceramics, and grapes, raisins and a thick grape syrup from the vineyards in the hills around the city.
Riding here demands serious thought. Travel advice for the West Bank changes frequently, and the situation can deteriorate quickly; check your government's guidance before going. Rental vehicles from Israel are often not insured for Palestinian areas, roads are subject to closures and checkpoints, and traffic in the city is congested and chaotic. The roads through the hills south of Bethlehem are scenic, with terraced olive groves and vineyards, but this is not a place for carefree riding.
Hebron has fuel and food. Try the local maqluba, an upside-down rice dish, or knafeh from a sweet shop.