Valdeón is the valley people forget to mention when they talk about the Picos de Europa, and that is a mistake. On the southern side of the range, in the province of León, it is a deep green bowl ringed by limestone peaks, with the village of Posada de Valdeón at its heart. The beech forests on its slopes, including those in the side valley known as the Canal de Asotín, are part of the UNESCO site of the Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe, a transnational listing that grew to include several forests in Spain. Walking in them in autumn, when the leaves turn copper and gold and the ground is soft with moss, is unforgettable.
Downstream, the Cares river carves one of the most spectacular gorges in Europe. The famous Cares trail starts at Caín, at the northern end of the valley, and follows a path cut into the cliff face high above the river for about eleven kilometres to Poncebos in Asturias. It is a classic walk, busy in summer, with sheer drops and tunnels through the rock.
The valley is also home to Valdeón cheese, a powerful blue cheese traditionally wrapped in leaves, made from cow and goat milk and aged in natural caves. Try it with bread and a glass of red wine, at a bar in Posada.
The riding is superb. The road into the valley from the south crosses the Puerto de Pandetrave, a high pass with stunning views of the central massif of the Picos, and descends in tight bends to Posada. From there, a narrow road continues north to Caín, a single-lane track with steep gradients and sharp turns, best taken slowly. To the west, the Puerto de Panderruedas leads to the Sajambre valley and on to the Desfiladero de los Beyos, a dramatic gorge road that winds between cliffs towards Cangas de Onís. Surfaces vary, and you will share the roads with cows, sheep and walkers. In winter, snow can close the passes.
Posada de Valdeón has bars, restaurants and accommodation, but fuel is scarce in the mountains; fill up in Riaño or Cangas de Onís before heading in. The weather is unpredictable, with fog, rain and sudden storms, even in summer. Carry warm, waterproof layers.