Route 97 between Port Jervis and Barryville is one of those roads that every rider in the north-east seems to know, and the section called Hawk's Nest is the reason. The road was cut into the face of the cliff high above the Delaware River in the 1930s, and for a few kilometres it clings to the rock, with the rock wall on one side and a stone parapet on the other, and the river a long way below. The curves are tight and sinuous, the views through the trees are wonderful, and the whole stretch has the air of a miniature Alpine road. There is a small pull-off at the overlook, where you can park and look down at the river and the forested hills beyond.
The Delaware here is a broad, green, free-flowing river, and there is a good chance you will see canoes or rafts drifting below. In winter the river valley is a haven for bald eagles, which come south from the frozen north to feed on fish, and the stretch near Barryville is a popular place for eagle watchers. Further along the road is Lackawaxen, where the Roebling Delaware Aqueduct, built in the 1840s as part of a canal, is now a road bridge and one of the oldest wire suspension bridges in America. It was designed by John Roebling, who later built the Brooklyn Bridge.
The road is much loved, but it demands respect. Sight lines are short, there is gravel on the corners in spring, and the shoulders are narrow. Police patrol the road, and speed limits are enforced firmly, so take it at a measured pace. Weekends in summer are crowded, and the corners are full of cyclists, cars and other bikes, so a weekday morning is the best time to enjoy it. In autumn the foliage is spectacular, with the maples turning red and gold, and the river catching the light below.
Fuel is available in Port Jervis, about seven kilometres from here, and in the small towns along the river, but do not count on the stations being open late. A roadside stand or cafe at Barryville or Lackawaxen is a good place to stop for coffee or a sandwich. Be alert for deer on the road, especially at dusk, and for wet leaves in autumn, which can be as slippery as ice.