Pele, the goddess of fire, is said to live in Halemaumau, the crater at the summit of Kilauea, and visitors who throw offerings into the steam do so with some seriousness. The Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, on the south-east side of the Big Island, covers two of the world's most active volcanoes: Kilauea, which has erupted on and off for centuries, and Mauna Loa, the largest active volcano on Earth, with a summit 4,169 metres above the sea and a base on the ocean floor far below. They are shield volcanoes, built of thousands of thin lava flows, and their slopes rise so gently that you hardly notice how high you are. The park is a World Heritage site, listed in 1987.
The landscape changes from the summit to the coast. Around the caldera, at about 1,200 metres, the air is cool and often damp, with ferns, ohia trees covered in red lehua flowers, and steam vents that curl from the ground. The Crater Rim Drive circles the caldera, passing the Thurston Lava Tube, a cave made by a lava stream that drained away, and parts of it have been closed or changed since the major eruption and summit collapse of 2018, so check what is open. The Chain of Craters Road then descends nineteen miles to the sea, across lava fields from different decades, black, cracked and bare, to a coast where waves crash against the lava cliffs.
For a rider, it is a joyous drive. The road from Hilo to the park on Highway 11 climbs steadily through rainforest and farmland, with good tarmac, gentle bends and a speed limit that is enforced. In the park, the roads are smooth and scenic, but speed limits are low and wildlife, including the endangered nene goose, may wander across the road. Weather changes quickly: rain showers are frequent, wind can blow cold at altitude, and fog may close in. Eruptions come and go, and the park may close areas because of volcanic gases or activity, so check the park's website before you set out.
Volcano Village, just outside the park entrance, has small shops and places to eat and stay, and Hilo, about forty-five minutes away, has the dependable fuel stations, so start with a full tank. Bring a rain jacket, a warm layer, water and sun protection. The coffee grown on the slopes of the Big Island, especially in the Kona and Kau districts, is a good reason to stop at a roadside stand. Dawn and dusk are the best times to see the glow of lava, if the volcano is active.