Havøysund is a fishing village on an island at the very north of Norway, at about seventy-one degrees north, and the road that leads to it is one of the northernmost in Europe. About a thousand people live here, in colourful wooden houses around a busy harbour, and the settlement exists for fish: cod, haddock and king crab, which arrived in the Barents Sea after being introduced by the Soviet Union and is now a valuable catch. The village was burned to the ground in 1944 when German forces retreated, as the whole of Finnmark was, and it was rebuilt after the war in a plain, practical style.
A bridge connects the island to the mainland, and the final stretch of road runs along the coast, past bare hills and rocky bays. The sea here is the Barents, cold and rich, and in summer, the sun stays in the sky around the clock. You may see sea eagles, eider ducks and, in the right season, whales offshore. The road is quiet and well maintained, though exposed to the wind, which can be fierce, particularly in autumn and winter. In summer, temperatures are cool and rain is frequent, so carry waterproofs.
Not far off, a wind farm stands on the hills near the village, one of the more curious sights in the Arctic. There is also a small sea-bird colony, and the headland near the village, with its lighthouse, is a good place to watch the waves. A coastal walk leads to a viewpoint, and there is a museum of local history. Visitors come mainly for the remote feel and the midnight sun.
Fuel and food are available in the village, but opening hours are limited, and it is wise to fill up before you set out. Local restaurants serve fresh seafood, including king crab, which is delicious and expensive. Accommodation is limited, so book ahead in summer. After a long ride across the empty north, it feels like arriving at the edge of the world, and the cold light on the water is an apt farewell.