Hautecombe Abbey stands on the western shore of Lac du Bourget, in Savoy, and it is almost impossible to reach without seeing the lake first. The Lac du Bourget is the largest natural lake entirely in France, a deep blue sheet under limestone cliffs, and the abbey sits on a small rocky spur above the water, with a boat landing and a church whose tower is visible across the bay. The poet Lamartine, who fell in love here in 1816, wrote a famous poem called Le Lac, about a lost love at this water.
The abbey was founded by Cistercian monks in the twelfth century, and in the following centuries it became the burial place of the counts and dukes of Savoy. The House of Savoy later became the royal family of Italy, and it is a strange fact that the last king of Italy, Umberto II, who died in exile in 1983, was buried here. The church is full of tombs and sculpture, and the style is a mixture of Gothic and nineteenth-century revival. The abbey was damaged in the Revolution and restored in the nineteenth century, and today it is home to a Catholic community that welcomes visitors.
The road there runs along the lake's western shore, a quiet and narrow route with views across the water to Aix-les-Bains, and traffic can build in summer. The surface is generally good, with gentle bends rather than anything dramatic. Further north, the Rhone flows through the marshes of Chautagne, and the village of Chanaz has a canal that links the lake to the river. Mont du Chat, the ridge on the west side, offers a steep, winding road for those who want more of a challenge.
Brison-Saint-Innocent and Chatillon are the nearest villages with a few thousand people, and Aix-les-Bains, on the eastern shore, is a spa town with everything you need, including fuel. Try fish from the lake, such as perch and omble chevalier, served with local white wine. Quiet early mornings give the best light on the water, and the abbey itself is calm outside peak hours. Dress modestly, and be prepared to speak softly inside the church.