Haugastøl is a mountain hamlet on the Hardangervidda plateau, and it feels exactly like the edge of the world's largest high-altitude plain in northern Europe. The Hardangervidda is a vast, treeless plateau of about 8,000 square kilometres, with an average height of around 1,100 metres, covered in lakes, bogs, heather and low mountains. It is a national park, home to Europe's largest herd of wild reindeer, and the weather is often harsh, with fog, wind and snow even in summer. Haugastøl sits on the northern edge, at about 1,000 metres, with a hotel, a few cabins and a railway station on the Bergen line, and Geilo, nearly twenty kilometres away, is the nearest town.
The road across the plateau is a National Tourist Route, and it is a quiet, wide, open ride. The surface is smooth, and the curves are long and gentle, with views across lakes and low ridges that seem to go on forever. You rarely see a tree, and the horizon is huge. The Hardangervidda has been used for centuries by herders and travellers, and old trails cross the plateau. In summer, the plateau is a hikers' paradise, with huts and trails, and in winter, it is a place for cross-country skiing. Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen trained on the Vidda before their polar expeditions.
Weather is the main point to consider. Even in July, the temperature can be close to freezing, and sudden storms or fog are common. Keep warm layers and waterproofs handy, and be prepared for strong winds. In winter, snow closes the road at times, and drifts are common into May. The road is not busy, but trucks and campers use it in summer, and reindeer sometimes cross, so keep an eye out.
Fuel is available in Geilo, but not on the plateau, and it is wise to fill the tank before you set off. Haugastøl has a hotel and cafe, where you can eat a simple meal of soup, bread and coffee. The air is clear and cold, with a smell of heather and wet stone. The huge sky and long light make this a place for slow riding and for being very small.