The same hillside that holds the Hittite capital also holds a surprising amount of woodland, and that is the story of this stop. The spelling Hattousa is the French form of Hattusha, and the Ibikçam forest, a stand of pine on the slopes around the ruins, is part of the protected landscape that surrounds the site. After days of riding across bare steppe, it comes as a relief to find shade, birdsong and the smell of resin. The forest was planted or preserved in the twentieth century, and it makes the long walks between the monuments far more pleasant.
Take a path through the trees in the early morning, and you may hear woodpeckers and see a fox slipping across the track. The rocky outcrops that the Hittites used for their fortifications are covered in lichen, and wild thyme and sage grow among the stones. In spring the meadows have orchids and poppies, and the air is pleasantly cool even when the plain is hot. It is also a place where visitors can picnic on the grass and rest, which is useful because the nearest town with proper facilities is about twenty-five kilometres off.
Riding here means quiet, easy roads with good views. The tarmac that links the ruins is narrow but usually in decent condition, and traffic is very light. Further out, the valley of the Kızılırmak, the longest river in Turkey, winds through the plateau, and its red banks and wide bends give way to sweeping fields of wheat. Watch for sheep, tractors and the occasional dog that decides to race your bike. Wind picks up in the afternoon on the open ridges.
Fuel is available in Alaca, Sungurlu and Yozgat, all around twenty-five kilometres from the site, and it is wise to fill up before you arrive. A small tea garden near the ruins and a few simple restaurants in the village sell soup, bread and grilled meat. The best seasons are May to June and September to October, and winter, with snow on the pines, is quiet and beautiful but cold.