Hashilegen Pass lies high in the central Tian Shan at roughly 3,400 metres, where the Duku Highway climbs to the divide and the world turns to rock, snow and sky. The scenery is wide and austere, with glaciers on the high peaks, meltwater streams across the alpine meadows and the occasional herder's felt tent.
The road is a serious mountain crossing. It climbs in long bends and hairpins, steeply in places, and the air thins quickly as you rise. Wind, cold and sudden changes in the weather are normal, and snow can fall in any month. The surface is mostly good, but potholes and rock falls are common, especially after storms. The pass is closed in winter, from about November, and reopens only after the heavy snow has been cleared in spring, so the ride season is short and the road is at its best in summer and early autumn.
The Tian Shan, which means Celestial Mountains in Chinese, stretch for thousands of kilometres across Central Asia, and their glaciers feed the rivers that water the deserts of Xinjiang. The region is home to Kazakh, Mongol, Uyghur and Han communities, each with their own food, music and traditions, and the pastoral life of the highland herders is a living tradition. In summer you will see flocks of sheep and herds of horses moving up to the high pastures, and the grass is dotted with wild flowers.
Services are almost non-existent at the pass, so bring water and food, extra layers and a fully fuelled bike. Phone signal is patchy, and the nearest towns are far away. The mountain light is sharp and bright, and the sunsets can be spectacular, but do not linger too late, as temperatures drop quickly after dark. Foreign riders should note that China requires special permits and licensed guides for foreign motorcyclists.