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Harlington, on the way back

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John Bunyan was arrested near Harlington in November 1660 for preaching without a licence, and he was taken to the manor house in the village to be questioned before being sent to Bedford jail, where he spent twelve years and began writing The Pilgrim's Progress. The house still stands, and an oak in the area, known as Bunyan's Oak, is said to be where he preached.

Harlington is a village at the foot of the Chiltern escarpment, south of Bedford, and the land rises sharply to the south, where the Sundon Hills and Sharpenhoe Clappers offer fine views over the Bedfordshire plain. The chalk grassland is rich in wildflowers and butterflies, and the beech woods on the Clappers are beautiful in autumn.

For a swim, the options are limited. The Marston Vale, to the north, has lakes created from old clay pits, used for brick-making, and some have watersports and beaches, but check whether swimming is allowed. The rivers around here are small and not suitable for bathing.

The riding is pleasant, with lanes climbing the escarpment and running through the villages. The M1 is close, and the A6 and A5 run north-south. Traffic can be heavy around Luton and Dunstable.

Flitwick, a few miles north, covers fuel. Then, if the evening is clear, ride up to the car park below Sharpenhoe Clappers and walk the ten minutes to the edge of the escarpment. The whole of Bedfordshire lies at your feet, which sounds less impressive than it looks.

Read it in a ride

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