Hardknott Pass has a reputation among British riders that is partly earned and partly exaggerated, but the earned part is considerable. The road climbs from the Eskdale side in a series of short, sharp hairpins with gradients of up to one in three, among the steepest on any public road in England, and the surface is narrow, rough and often slick, with no barriers on the outside of the bends. At the summit, 393 metres above sea level, the road crosses a high saddle between the valleys of the Esk and the Duddon, and then drops again, nearly as steeply, to Cockley Beck. Take it slowly, in first gear, with both hands on the bars and a good look ahead.
Beyond the challenge, the pass has a fascinating history. Just below the summit on the Eskdale side stand the remains of Hardknott Roman Fort, called Mediobogdum by the Romans, built in the second century to guard the road from Ravenglass on the coast to Ambleside. The fort commanded one of the loneliest postings in the empire, and on a clear day you can walk around the foundations of the granary, the commander's house and the bath house, with a spectacular view to the Scafell range. It is easy to imagine a legionary from the Mediterranean, standing here in the rain, wondering what he had done wrong.
The Lake District here is at its roughest and most remote. Bare crags, bracken and heather cover the slopes, and the lakes are far below, out of sight. Herdwick sheep, the tough, grey-faced breed of the Lakes, graze the hillsides and wander across the road without concern. The weather matters: low cloud and mist can reduce visibility to a few metres, rain makes the surface treacherous, and in winter, ice and snow close the road. It is best done in dry, clear conditions, in spring or early autumn, and many riders prefer to approach from the west, climbing the steeper hairpins rather than descending them, though opinions vary.
There are no facilities on the pass. Fuel is available in Ambleside, about twenty kilometres to the east, and at villages on the coast such as Seascale, and the Woolpack Inn at Eskdale and the café at Boot may serve food, though opening hours vary. Carry a warm layer and a drink, and make sure your clutch and brakes are in good order before you go. The pass is not for large vehicles or caravans, and drivers who ignore the warnings often cause long delays, so be prepared to wait.