Hardknott Pass tops out at about 393 metres, and the Romans got here first. Just below the summit on the Eskdale side stand the ruins of Mediobogdum, a fort built in the second century to guard the road from Ravenglass to Ambleside, and its stone walls, gateways and parade ground are laid out on a shelf with a view down the valley to the sea. Soldiers were posted here from as far away as Dalmatia, which makes the place feel even more remote. It is free to visit, and the walk from the road is short.
The road is the other attraction, and it asks for respect. Coming up from Eskdale the gradient reaches one in three on the hairpins, the surface is narrow and sometimes rough, and there are no barriers at the worst drops. The hairpins are tight enough that a loaded bike needs a firm hand, a low gear and a steady clutch, and stopping on the steepest part for a photograph is a bad idea. Wet leaves, gravel and sheep add to the challenge. In ice or snow, the pass is simply impassable, and signs warn drivers to turn back.
Come with a full tank and pack a flask. Mobile signal comes and goes. Brakes get a workout on the descent, and engine braking in first gear is better than riding the lever. If you meet a car on a narrow stretch, the usual courtesy applies: the vehicle going uphill generally has priority, as it is harder to restart.
The scenery is hard to beat. The pass runs over the shoulder of the high fells, with the great mass of Scafell and the crags of the Scafell range to the north, and on a clear day the Irish Sea shines in the west and the Isle of Man shows on the horizon. Herdwick sheep, hardy and grey, graze the verges. The wind blows constantly, and cloud can drop in minutes. A calm, clear morning in late spring or autumn is the best time to try it.