Halne Fjellstugu stands at 1,135 metres on the Rv7, beside the lake of Halnefjorden, in the middle of the Hardangervidda, and its main virtue is that it is there at all. This is an enormous, empty country, with very few buildings, and a mountain lodge on the road is a landmark in its own right. The place is a classic Norwegian fjellstue, a timber lodge with a restaurant, rooms and a big stove, and it has been taking in travellers, walkers and skiers in a country where weather can turn at any time.
The landscape is low and open, with reindeer moss, rocks and water, and the colour is a mix of grey, green and brown, lit by a very clear northern light. In late summer the ground turns red and gold with dwarf birch and bilberry leaves, and the light has a pale, silvery softness that makes every ridge stand out. The lake is cold and deep, and in winter it freezes and the whole area becomes a playground for cross-country skiers, who come in large numbers from February to April.
The road between Geilo and Dyranut is one of the highest main roads in the country, and in good weather it is a joy, with long, gentle bends and fast, open straights. Be prepared for the opposite as well. Fog, rain and wind sweep across the plateau, and ice can form on the surface in any month. Visibility can drop to a few metres, and you should slow down and light up. In winter the road is often closed or open only in convoy behind a plough, so check conditions at the Norwegian road authority before you go.
Geilo, with a couple of thousand people, is the nearest town of any size and has fuel, shops and plenty of places to eat, so fill up there before you cross the plateau. The lodge itself offers food and drink in season, but check opening times in advance. In the middle of the plateau, cell coverage may be patchy, and there is little help around, so let someone know your plan. A cup of coffee at the window, with rain on the glass and a stove burning, is a small and solid pleasure that you remember long after the ride.