Hallwilersee is one of the quieter lakes of the Swiss Plateau, a long, narrow stretch of water in the Aargau hills some forty kilometres south-west of Zürich, lying in the Seetal valley at roughly four hundred and fifty metres. It lacks the drama of the lakes near the Alps, but it has a gentle beauty that appeals to those who prefer a slower pace: green meadows, orchards, small harbours and a swimming beach on each shore. In summer, rowing boats and paddle boards dot the surface.
At the northern end stands Schloss Hallwyl, a moated castle that is one of the best-preserved water castles in Switzerland. The Hallwyl family held it for centuries, and the buildings, which date from the twelfth century onward, are set on two islands in a pond and surrounded by gardens. Inside, a museum shows how the nobility lived. The area is also home to some of the oldest lake dwellings in the region, with prehistoric pile settlements around the shore that form part of a UNESCO listing of the Alps' pile-dwellings.
For a rider, the ride around the lake is a pleasant interlude between more ambitious roads. Minor lanes follow the shore through villages such as Meisterschwanden, Beinwil and Seengen, with good surfaces and gentle bends, and the climb to the ridge above the lake gives wide views. The Seetal is a favourite with cyclists, so take care on weekends, and speed cameras are common. It makes a good water stop on the way to the Jura, with plenty of cafés and lakeside restaurants where you can sit with a drink.
Meisterschwanden has about two and a half thousand people, with a few shops and places to eat, and Reinach, a few kilometres away, has fuel and larger supermarkets. Regional roads here are well signed, and motorcyclists will find parking easy at the lakeside.
Try fresh lake fish, such as perch fillets, if you see them on the menu, and a glass of local white wine from the Seetal hills. The evening light on the water makes it hard to leave.