Hakone Turnpike is a toll road, one of Japan's famous scenic drives, and it climbs from the coast near Yugawara and Odawara up through the caldera rim into the mountains of Hakone. The turnpike runs through cedar and pine, with views over Sagami Bay behind and the volcanic cone of Mount Kintoki ahead, and it is smooth, well-surfaced and maintained to a very high standard. The bends are broad and flowing, designed for sightseeing as much as for sport, which means the pace is relaxed and the road is wide enough for a bit of enjoyment.
The whole of Hakone sits inside a huge volcanic crater, the rim of which forms the ridges you ride along. Inside the caldera is Lake Ashi, and near it the active volcanic zone of Owakudani, where steam rises from vents and the air smells of sulphur. Eggs boiled in the hot springs turn black and are sold to visitors, and local legend says they add seven years to your life. The volcano erupted in a small way in 2015, and parts of the area were closed for a while, so it is wise to check current conditions before you go.
Hakone was also a barrier. During the Edo period, the Tokugawa shogunate set up a checkpoint here on the Tokaido, the great road between Edo and Kyoto, to control weapons coming into the capital and women, known as irionna, leaving it. A reconstruction stands beside the lake today, and you can still walk a stretch of the old paved path through an avenue of ancient cedars. The place has many hot springs, and a night in an inn with an open-air bath is one of the great pleasures of the region.
The turnpike is a good ride in nearly all seasons, though fog can arrive suddenly and hide the road in a few minutes. Early morning is best, because the road is empty and the light is clear. Autumn colours are bright in late October and November, and in winter the road can have ice in shaded places. The town of Hakone has a population of thirteen thousand, and is the nearest source of fuel and services. Expect to pay a toll on the turnpike, and keep some coins or a card ready.