The Hairpin Turn on the Mohawk Trail is exactly what it says, and it has been catching bikers' attention since the days of Model Ts. Route 2 climbs the western face of the Hoosac Range out of North Adams in a switchback so tight that the road seems to double back on itself, with a stone wall on the outside edge and a deep view over the town and the Hoosac Valley on the other. At the apex there is a small pull-off, a gift shop and a few restaurants, and a lookout where you can see for miles.
The Mohawk Trail was one of the first scenic highways in the United States, opened in 1914 and promoted to motorists as a way to see New England's hills. The name comes from an old path used by Native peoples, including the Mohawk, to cross the mountains between the Connecticut and Hudson valleys, and the road follows it in places. The route soon became a destination for early motorists, and the hairpin was a showpiece, a place for photographs and thrills. Today it is a popular route for motorcyclists, especially in autumn.
The riding is a pleasure. The climb to the hairpin has good grip, a steady gradient and several tight bends, with a series of tight curves at the top, and the descent into North Adams is equally fun, though the road narrows and the speed limit drops near the town. Traffic is heavy on summer weekends and in leaf-peeping season, when slow-moving cars, tour buses and trucks fill the road, and the shoulder is narrow in places, so patience and care are essential. Early morning gives the best chance of an open road and clear views.
Fall colour is the main attraction, with the maples and birches turning red, orange and gold from late September to mid-October, and the hills around look like patchwork. Mount Greylock, the highest peak in Massachusetts, rises to the south. Weather changes fast, with fog and rain on the summit, and cold early mornings in autumn, so dress warmly.
North Adams, about four kilometres below, has petrol stations, supermarkets and restaurants, and it is also home to a large contemporary art museum in a converted mill. The gift shops at the hairpin sell maple syrup, local crafts and souvenirs, and there is usually somewhere to buy coffee and a doughnut.
Pause at the lookout before you head down. The valley is a picture, and the road is better with the view fresh in your mind.