Mount Carmel rises straight from the Mediterranean, and Haifa climbs its slope in tiers, the port at the bottom, the German Colony halfway up, and the leafy residential districts along the crest. On the hillside stands the golden-domed Shrine of the Báb, surrounded by terraced gardens of nineteen levels, the best-known sight in the city and the centre of the Bahá'í faith. The cemetery on Carmel, in quieter gardens nearby, holds the graves of members of the family of Bahá'u'lláh, and is a place of stillness among cypress and lawn. The Bahá'í holy places in Haifa and western Galilee are listed by UNESCO.
Visitors are welcome in the public gardens, but access to the shrines and cemetery has particular times and rules, so check in advance. Modest dress is expected, and a quiet manner. The terraces are open at certain hours and are one of the most carefully tended public gardens in the Middle East, with lawns, stone steps and flower beds.
Haifa is a hilly city, and riding means steep streets, tight turns and heavy traffic on the main roads, particularly at rush hour. The Carmelit, an underground funicular with six stations, is one of the smallest metro systems in the world, and a good way to move about on a hot day. In summer the heat and humidity are strong, while spring and autumn are milder. Public transport slows on Shabbat, when many services stop for a day.
Haifa has about two hundred and seventy thousand people, with fuel and food everywhere, and Tirat Karmel, to the south, is a smaller town. The ride from here heads south to Tel Aviv, along the coast road, past the ruins of Caesarea and the beaches. The city has a reputation as a place where communities live side by side, and its food reflects it, with excellent hummus and falafel, Arab pastries and fresh fish. Check current conditions and travel advice before you go, because the regional situation can change quickly.