Haghpat is a monastery perched on a ledge above the Debed Canyon, and it is one of those places that makes the long ride worth it. The complex, together with its sister monastery at Sanahin, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it is a masterpiece of medieval Armenian architecture. It was founded in 976, in the reign of the Bagratid kings, by Queen Khosrovanuysh, and expanded over the next three centuries, with a main church, a bell tower, a refectory and a library, all built of dark grey stone with delicate carved decoration.
The setting is as special as the buildings. The monastery sits on a spur of a mountainside, with views across the gorge to forested slopes on the other side, and a cool wind blowing through the courtyard. Inside, the churches are dark, and the smell of candle wax and old stone hangs in the air. Khachkars, the carved cross-stones that are the national art form of Armenia, stand in the grass, each with a unique pattern of lacework in stone. The sound of a choir singing in the church, if you are lucky, is unforgettable.
The monastery was a centre of learning, with a scriptorium where manuscripts were copied and illuminated. The ashulug Sayat-Nova, the eighteenth-century poet and troubadour, is said to have spent time here and is buried at the monastery. His songs, in Armenian, Georgian and Azerbaijani, are still sung across the Caucasus, and the story of a bard at a mountain monastery is a fine one to keep in mind as you sit in the courtyard.
Below the monastery lies the town of Alaverdi, an industrial centre built around a copper smelter, and the contrast between the old stone buildings and the smoking Soviet works is stark. A cable car links Alaverdi to Sanahin, and offers a view down the canyon. The road up to Haghpat is steep and narrow, with tight bends and a rough surface in places, and it is best taken slowly. Parking at the monastery is limited, and the walk from the lot is short.
Alaverdi, about three kilometres away, has fuel, shops and places to eat, and it is the sensible place to prepare before the climb. Dress modestly, and bring a scarf if you are visiting the churches. The best light is in the morning and late afternoon, when the stone seems to glow.