Brampton is a small market town at the foot of the North Pennines, and just north of it, the line of Hadrian's Wall crosses the low country between the Irthing and the Eden. On this stretch, the stone wall itself has mostly vanished, robbed for building material over the centuries, but the line can still be traced in places through fields and hedgerows, along with the vallum, the great earthwork ditch the Romans dug just south of the wall. Parts of the wall in this sector were first built of turf, and only later rebuilt in stone, which is one reason why so little survives here.
The area is rich in history beyond the Romans. Lanercost Priory, a few miles northeast, was founded in the twelfth century by Augustinian canons, partly using stone taken from the Wall. Its ruined church and cloisters stand in a peaceful valley, and the nave is still used as the parish church. Edward I stayed here for several months in 1306 and 1307 during his campaigns against the Scots, and the border wars brought frequent raids. Further along the Wall to the east, Birdoswald Roman fort sits on a bend of the Irthing, with one of the best surviving stretches of stone wall nearby.
Brampton itself has an octagonal moot hall on its market square and a church with stained glass windows designed by Edward Burne-Jones and made by William Morris's company. It's a pleasant place to stop, with bakeries, cafés and pubs.
The main road through the area is the A69 from Carlisle to Newcastle, fast and busy, with lorries and dual carriageway sections. Much better are the minor roads north of it, through Lanercost, Banks and Gilsland, which follow the line of the Wall with gentle curves, short climbs and views over the Irthing valley. South of Brampton, the road over Hartside Pass into the North Pennines, the A686, is one of the great motorcycling roads of northern England, climbing in long bends to over five hundred metres. The weather changes fast up there, so be ready for wind, rain and mist.
Brampton has fuel and services, and Carlisle, fourteen kilometres west, has everything. Try a Cumberland sausage or a slice of local cake with your tea.