West of Birdoswald the Wall changes character. The central crags fall behind, the River Irthing loops through its gorge below, and the frontier runs across gentler farmland towards Banks and Hare Hill, where one of the tallest surviving fragments of the Wall still stands, patched by later hands. Here too the vallum, the great earthwork south of the Wall, can be traced across the fields, and the remains of turrets at Banks East and Pike Hill sit right beside the road. It is a quieter stretch than the famous sections further east, and all the better for it.
Birdoswald fort, perched on a spur above the Irthing, has some of the best-preserved defences on the Wall, and nearby at Willowford the Romans built a bridge across the river, whose abutment can still be seen. A short distance west lies Lanercost Priory, founded in the twelfth century by Augustinian canons, and built in part from stone taken from the Wall. Its ruined church, with its tall west front, is one of the most beautiful in the north of England, and the nave is still used as the parish church. Edward I stayed here for several months in 1306 and 1307, during his last campaign against the Scots, already ill and close to death.
The riding here is a pleasure, with narrow lanes running along the Wall, through small villages and farmland, and climbing onto the edge of the moors to the north. The roads are generally good but narrow, with sharp bends, steep hills and occasional cattle grids. Traffic is light, and the views are wide and open. The weather can be wet and windy at any time of year, and the lanes can be muddy after rain, so take care.
Brampton, about eight kilometres away, is a small market town with fuel, shops and pubs, and its octagonal Moot Hall stands in the centre of the market square. Haltwhistle, to the east, claims to be the centre of Britain and is another good place for supplies. Carlisle, the largest city in the area, is about twenty two kilometres away, with its castle, cathedral and all the services you could need. The Lake District and the Scottish borders are both within easy reach, offering more challenging riding for those who want to extend the trip.