Haast Pass is the lowest crossing of the Southern Alps, at 562 metres, and the road over it carries State Highway 6 from the inland lakes of Otago to the wild West Coast. It is a gentle summit in a high, steep landscape, with beech forest on the slopes and snow peaks above, and it feels like a doorway between two worlds. On the east side, the land is dry and open, with tawny tussock and the pale blue of lakes. On the west side, the rain falls heavily, and the forest is dense, green and hung with moss, a temperate rainforest that reaches almost to the sea.
For centuries the pass was a route for Māori, who crossed it to bring back pounamu, the greenstone, from the rivers of the West Coast. European explorers found it in the 1860s, but the road was not completed until 1965, and until then the West Coast was cut off from the south by a gap of wild country. Today the road is a fine ride, with long, smooth bends, a good surface and wide views of rivers and mountains. Several waterfalls are visible from the road, notably Fantail Falls and Thunder Creek Falls, both a short walk from the car park, and a number of small bridges cross the roaring Haast River.
Weather is the main factor. Rain can fall in great quantity on the western side, and in winter the pass can have snow or ice, with chains required. Landslides and floods sometimes close the road, so check the status before you set out. Sandflies are a feature of the area, tiny biting insects that appear in clouds when you stop, so carry repellent, and do not be surprised if you leave with a few itchy bites. The ride is quiet, with moderate traffic, though in summer campervans and tourist cars are common.
Fuel is the key concern. There are long gaps between stations, and you should fill up in Wanaka or Queenstown before you start, and again at Haast, on the far side, if the tank is low. Makarora, on the east side, is a small settlement with limited services, and it is best not to rely on it. Take food and water, and give yourself time to stop at the waterfalls and the river. It is a day of beautiful scenery, and the best of it comes in the morning light.