Haast is the last outpost before the wilderness. For decades, it was cut off by rivers and forest, and the road north to Fox Glacier was only completed in 1965, making it the last link in the West Coast highway.
The road from here, State Highway 6, runs in two directions, both superb. North, it follows the coast through rainforest, past lakes, beaches and viewpoints such as Knights Point, to Fox and Franz Josef glaciers, where the ice descends almost to the rainforest. East, it climbs through the valley of the Haast river to the Haast Pass, at 563 metres, a low crossing of the Alps, then drops to Makarora and the lakes of Wanaka and Hawea. The bends are long and flowing, the surface is good, and the scenery is among the finest in the world, with waterfalls, beech forest and mountains. Rain is heavy, up to several metres a year, so waterproofs are essential. Drive on the left, and watch for one-lane bridges.
The area is wild and wet. Mount Aspiring National Park lies inland, and the coast is part of the Te Wāhipounamu world heritage area. Sandflies are infamous, and a good repellent is worth buying. The beaches are littered with driftwood, and the air smells of salt and bush. Haast has a small museum, a few cafes and a visitor centre.
Fuel is available in Haast, but it is the only reliable place for many kilometres, so fill your tank, since the next stations are far to the north and east. Carry food for the road, as villages are small and cafes may close early.
Let the rain pass if it comes, and watch the clouds shift on the peaks. The mountains reveal themselves slowly.