Guzeripl is the village at the foot of the Lago-Naki plateau, where the Belaya River emerges from the Caucasus, and it is the last real settlement before the mountains take over. The valley here is cut deep into the limestone, and the river runs fast and clear and a pale, milky green, between forested cliffs and a few terraces of farmland. The village itself is spread along the river, with houses, orchards and guesthouses, and a base for visitors heading to the plateau, to the river canyons, and to the caves.
Much of the surrounding area is part of Adygea, a small republic with a long Circassian history. The Adyghe, as they call themselves, were once the dominant people along the northwest Caucasus, and in the 1860s, after the Russian conquest, most of them were driven out to the Ottoman Empire, in one of the great tragedies of the nineteenth century. Those who stayed built a modest culture that survives in the cuisine, with cheese, flatbread and spiced meat, and in hospitality, a tradition in which guests are treated almost with ceremony.
The Belaya canyon, a short way downstream, is one of the best natural sights in the region. The river cuts through a narrow gorge, past walls of limestone, and in summer, rafting and canyoning trips run from the villages. The caves of the area, including the huge Azishskaya Cave, which has been developed for visitors, are a few kilometres away, and the whole district is a karst wonderland, full of sinkholes and springs.
The ride to Guzeripl from Kamennomostsky follows the river for much of the way, on a narrow, winding road through forest and meadow, with views of the mountains ahead. The surface is variable, with good tarmac in places and patched or broken sections in others, and rockfalls and washouts are possible after heavy rain. There is a fair amount of tourist traffic in summer, and minibuses and trucks can be slow, so patience helps. Fog and low cloud can obscure the upper valley, and temperatures drop sharply with altitude. The best months are June to September, and autumn colour in the beech forest is memorable.
Fuel is the practical question. Guzeripl has guesthouses, a few cafés and small shops, which cover the basics, though in the high season, rooms are scarce. Walk by the river in the evening, and listen to the water. It is the real sound of the Caucasus.