Guonei was the first capital of Koguryo on the Yalu, the city to which the court moved in the first years of the Common Era, and it grew into a significant centre. The name means something like the inner kingdom, and the city lay on a flat terrace by the river, protected by mountains on three sides. Its stone walls, built to enclose the palace, the markets and the houses, were several kilometres long, and traces of them can still be seen in the streets of modern Ji'an, which has been built over the old town.
Walking in Ji'an you find fragments of the past among the shops and apartment blocks. A section of the ancient wall stands between buildings, built of rough-cut stone, and a museum in the town holds finds from the tombs, including roof tiles stamped with faces, gilt-bronze ornaments, and pottery. The Gwanggaeto stele, a tall inscribed stone from the early fifth century, stands in its own pavilion, and, with its long text, it is one of the most important documents of early Korean history.
The setting is beautiful. The Yalu River curves past the town, wide and green, with Korea on the far bank, and fields of corn and rice spread over the plain. In the surrounding hills, the ridges rise in layers, and autumn colour makes them glow. The weather is harsh in winter, with temperatures below minus twenty, and pleasant in summer, with warm days and cool nights.
The ride here is more complicated than most. China restricts foreign motorcyclists, who normally need a temporary licence, a guide and a registered route, and independent riding is not generally possible. Most visitors come by train, by car or by organised tour. Manp'o, on the other bank, is part of North Korea and is not open to casual travel. If you are visiting Ji'an, you will find fuel, hotels, restaurants and a modest museum, and local dishes such as cold noodles and grilled river fish. Spend a half day in the town and another at the tombs, and take your time.