Zama is home to an American army base, Camp Zama, which has been there since the 1940s and is the headquarters of the US Army in Japan. The Sagami river runs a few kilometres to the west, and Mount Oyama, a sacred peak, rises on the horizon on a clear day.
For a ride on three mountains in Gunma, this is the long way home. The roads are busy and wide, with bus lanes and lights, but there are also narrow lanes through the hills, with bends and short climbs. The surface is good, with few potholes, and traffic moves steadily. In summer, the Zama Sunflower Festival fills the fields along the river with huge yellow flowers, and in autumn, the area is quiet and clear. Keep to the limits, as police and cameras are frequent.
The Tama Hills have been farmed for centuries, with chestnuts, persimmons and vegetables as the main crops, and small shrines and Buddhist halls stand among the trees. Sagamihara, the big city to the west, was an army town before the war, and the old military roads and tunnels are still used. Machida, to the east, is a hub for the whole area, with a lively market and department stores.
Fuel and food are no problem, with stations on every main road and a large variety of eating places. The Odakyu and Sotetsu lines connect the area to Shinjuku and Yokohama, and the expressway is only a few minutes away. A bowl of ramen at a roadside shop is a rider's reward, and the bakeries near the stations are good.
Stop where the hills open a view of Mount Fuji, which is visible on winter days. The snow cone above the haze is a good end to the day.