Guaraqueçaba is one of those places in Brazil where the road gives up before the forest does. It lies on the northern shore of the great bay of Paranaguá, on the coast of Paraná state, surrounded by mangroves, islands, tidal channels and the steep, forested slopes of the Serra do Mar. The ecological station protects a large area of mangroves and coastal forest, and it is part of the Atlantic Forest South-East Reserves, a World Heritage Site that preserves some of the best remaining stretches of the Mata Atlântica, a forest that once covered much of Brazil's coast and has now been reduced to a fraction of its former extent.
The wildlife is extraordinary. The region is the stronghold of the red-tailed amazon, a parrot with a purple face that roosts on the islands of the bay, and the black-faced lion tamarin, a small primate found nowhere else. Dolphins swim in the bay, and the mangroves are full of crabs, herons and other birds. Fishing communities live on the islands and along the shore, much as they have for generations, with canoes, nets and small farms.
Getting here by bike is an adventure. The road from Antonina to Guaraqueçaba is largely unpaved, a long stretch of gravel and dirt through forest and farmland, with mud, ruts and river crossings after heavy rain. It is best ridden on a dual sport bike, in dry weather, with plenty of time. Many visitors arrive by boat instead, from Paranaguá, a trip of a couple of hours across the bay. The ecological station itself is a protected area with restricted access, so check with the authorities before planning a visit.
For tarmac riders, the region offers one of the classic roads of southern Brazil: the Estrada da Graciosa, a historic road paved with stones that winds down the Serra do Mar from near Curitiba to Morretes, through dense forest, with hairpins, waterfalls and viewpoints. Morretes is famous for barreado, a slow-cooked beef stew traditionally sealed in a clay pot. Antonina, a colonial port town, and Paranaguá, the main port of the state, have fuel and services. The climate is hot and humid, with heavy rain at any time of year, so pack accordingly.