Guamka lies at the mouth of the Guam Gorge, a narrow slot in the limestone where the Kurdzhips River comes down from the Caucasus. The gorge is about a kilometre and a half long, and in places the walls rise several hundred metres, so close together that the sky is a thin strip and the light is dim even at noon. Ferns and moss cling to the rock, and the river has cut smooth, curved shapes into the stone. It is a spectacular place, and for nearly a century, it has drawn travellers who come to see a piece of the mountains that can be reached without climbing a peak.
The reason it is so accessible is a railway. In the twentieth century, a narrow-gauge line was built through the gorge, and a tiny train with a few carriages still runs along the cliff, crossing the river on small bridges, and carrying visitors in the summer season. It is slow, rattling, and lovely, and it is a part of the area's character. A walking path follows the line, and at the upper end of the gorge there is a cluster of small cafés and stalls selling honey, herbs and tea.
The surrounding country is the western Caucasus: steep forested slopes of beech, oak and fir, with limestone cliffs and caves. Bears, wild boar and deer live in the hills, though you are unlikely to see them, and in spring, the ground is covered with snowdrops and primroses. Mezmay, a village a short distance away, is a popular base for walkers.
For riders, the roads here are among the most enjoyable in the region, away from the busy Black Sea coast. The route from Apsheronsk climbs through the foothills in long, gentle curves, with the gorge opening dramatically ahead. The surface is generally decent, though patchy, and there can be gravel and mud near the gorge. Weekends in summer are crowded, so go early. Rain can arrive suddenly, and the gorge is slippery in wet weather, so wear shoes with grip if you plan to walk. September is a very good month, with fewer visitors and warm days.
Fuel is available in Apsheronsk, about twenty-nine kilometres away, and in Kamennomostsky, so fill up before you come. Neftegorsk and the smaller villages have basic shops, and the cafés at the gorge serve hot food and tea. Look up from the bottom of the gorge, and notice how small the sky becomes. It is an old, deep, quiet place.