Guadalajara is Mexico's second city in many ways, and the heart of its mariachi and tequila traditions. Mariachi music, the charro horsemanship and the tequila spirit all trace their cultural roots to the state of Jalisco, and the capital is where they come together. The historic centre has big colonial buildings, wide plazas and a cathedral with two towers that were rebuilt after an earthquake in the nineteenth century. Murals by José Clemente Orozco, one of the great Mexican muralists, cover the walls and dome of the Hospicio Cabañas, a vast neoclassical complex that is a UNESCO site.
Tlaquepaque and Zapopan are old towns now absorbed into the metropolis, and each has its own character. Tlaquepaque is known for pottery, glass and handicrafts, with pedestrian streets and open-air restaurants. The city has a reputation for good food, and the torta ahogada, a pork sandwich drowned in spicy sauce, is the local specialty. Birria, a slow-cooked meat stew, is another favourite.
For riders, Guadalajara is both the start and the finish of the road to the tequila country. About an hour northwest, the town of Tequila sits among fields of blue agave, with the volcano of the same name behind it. The agave landscape and the old distilleries in the area are a UNESCO World Heritage site. The road there is mostly a fast highway, with trucks and buses, followed by smaller roads between the plants, rows of spiky blue-grey rosettes stretching to the horizon. Toll roads are well kept, but local roads can have potholes and topes, the sharp speed bumps that appear without much warning.
The metropolitan area has millions of people, and fuel, food and repairs are available everywhere. Out in the country, stations are less frequent, though still regular on the main roads. Pemex, the national brand, has stations along most highways. Be aware that the rainy season runs from June to September, with heavy afternoon storms, and that the city's traffic can be chaotic, with buses, taxis and motorbikes weaving constantly.
Winter and spring bring dry, warm days, and the light on the agave fields in late afternoon is wonderful. Drink the tequila slowly, and not before riding.