Grožnjan, called Grisignana in Italian, is a hill town with fewer than a thousand people, and it has been rescued from decline by an unusual idea. After the Second World War and the departure of much of the Italian population, the village was left half empty and crumbling. In the 1960s, artists were invited to take over the abandoned houses as studios, and the town became a colony of painters, sculptors and potters. A summer music school, run by Jeunesses Musicales, brings young musicians from around the world, and in July and August the narrow streets fill with the sound of violins, pianos and singing from open windows.
The town sits on a ridge about two hundred and fifty metres above the valley of the Mirna river, with a long view across rolling green and brown hills toward the Adriatic and, on clear days, the Alps. Its old walls, gate and loggia date from the Venetian period, when Istria was part of the republic's territory, and the church and bell tower in the centre are simple and handsome. The stone houses along the cobbled lanes are now galleries and craft shops, selling paintings, ceramics and jewellery, as well as truffle products and local wine. The pace is slow, and the atmosphere is relaxed.
The roads leading up to Grožnjan are among the best in Istria for riding. They wind through woods of oak and hornbeam, past vineyards and olive groves, and across the open plateau, with gentle curves and smooth surfaces. Traffic is light, except at weekends in summer, when day visitors arrive. The village itself is closed to cars, so you park at the edge and walk. The inland hills are cooler and quieter than the coast, and in autumn the vineyards turn red and gold. Spring brings fresh green and wild flowers, and the evenings are mild.
The surrounding landscape is the heart of truffle country. The forests of the Mirna valley, near Motovun, produce the white truffle, which is hunted by trained dogs in autumn, and the black truffle, found in summer. Restaurants in the area serve truffles with pasta, eggs and local cheese. The wine here is mostly Malvazija, a crisp, aromatic white, and Teran, a robust red.
For fuel, Buje, about six kilometres from the village, has a station and a few shops, and Umag on the coast is a larger town with supermarkets. Grožnjan has a few cafés and konobas, though opening hours depend on the season. Visit on a weekday if you can, in the evening when the light is best.