Grootberg means big mountain in Afrikaans, and the name fits a flat-topped plateau that rises out of the stony plains of Kunene in north-western Namibia. It is part of the Etendeka formation, a thick stack of ancient lava flows that now forms a long escarpment, and the pass is a steep gravel descent off the edge, with sharp bends and loose stones. At the top, a lodge perches on the rim with a view that runs across the valley of the Klip river to a horizon of red, brown and purple hills.
This is desert-elephant country. A small population of elephants that have adapted to the dry conditions roams the dry riverbeds and valleys of the Kunene region, walking long distances between water and feeding grounds, and they are sometimes seen near the road. They are wild, and they can be dangerous, so keep a safe distance, never ride between a mother and her calf, and be ready to back off. Local communities manage conservation efforts, and tourism provides valuable income.
The riding is serious. The gravel road is rough in places, with deep corrugations, sharp rocks and washouts after rain, and the pass itself is steep and narrow, with little room to pass another vehicle. Take it slowly, in low gear, and make sure your bike is prepared, with good tyres and a spare tube. Rain can turn the track to mud and make dry river crossings dangerous. Heat is intense in summer, so start early, drink plenty of water and avoid riding in the midday sun.
There are no towns anywhere near, so supplies must be brought from outside. Fuel is available at larger towns such as Khorixas and Kamanjab, and it is sensible to fill up there and carry extra, since distances are great and the next pump could be hours away. A lodge on the plateau offers meals and rooms with a view, and it is wise to book ahead. Bring water, food and a good map, and leave word of your route. Sunrise from the rim, with the plains below turning from grey to gold, is one of the nicest sights in the north-west.