The summit of the Grimsel is at 2,164 metres, and it is a grey, stony place, with the character of a high mountain that has seen everything. The pass lies on the border between the cantons of Bern and Valais, and also on the great European watershed, with water on the north side flowing toward the Rhine and the North Sea and the south side toward the Rhône and the Mediterranean. Around the road, there are no trees, only bare granite, scoured by ice, with small lakes lying in hollows. The Totesee, the Lake of the Dead, sits right beside the road at the top, a cold, dark pool.
The mountains here are among the most stunning in Switzerland. Huge, smooth granite slabs, polished by glaciers, slope down to the lake, and above them, the peaks of the Bernese Alps rise with their caps of snow and ice. A few kilometres to the south-east is the Rhone Glacier, source of the Rhône, reached by the Furka Pass, and another road continues over the Nufenen Pass to Ticino. Together, they form the heart of the Swiss Alpine road network.
The Grimsel Hospiz, a hotel and restaurant on the northern side, has been offering shelter to travellers for centuries, and an old hospice stood here long before the modern road. Today the buildings stand beside a reservoir, the Grimselsee, and the area is dominated by dams and power stations. Despite the engineering, the setting remains wild and impressive.
For the rider, the Grimsel is a joy. The road climbs from the north in long, sweeping bends with a smooth surface, and the gradient is steady, so you can enjoy the rhythm. There is a good deal of traffic in summer, including coaches and campers, and weekends can be busy, so aim for an early start or a weekday. Weather changes fast, with fog and rain in minutes, so wear warm, waterproof clothing.
The pass is open from about June to October, and the exact dates depend on the snow. In the evening, the light on the granite turns warm and golden, and the water of the lakes goes still.