Handeck is a small place where a great river falls over a cliff. The Aare plunges about forty-six metres down a rocky chasm, and a footbridge crosses the gorge close to the water, so that the spray drifts over you and the roar fills your ears. It is a dramatic sight, particularly in early summer, when the snowmelt is at its peak. A short path leads to the viewing platforms, and a few minutes' walk is enough to feel the power of the water.
Handeck is also home to the Gelmerbahn, a funicular railway that climbs to the Gelmer reservoir high above. It was built in the 1920s to carry materials for the dam, and it is one of the steepest funiculars in Europe, with a gradient of more than a hundred per cent, which means the track rises more than a metre for each metre travelled. Today it carries visitors in open cars up the cliff, a short but exciting ride with huge views. The reservoir at the top is a lovely, remote lake in a granite basin.
The rock around here is smooth, pale granite, polished by glaciers over thousands of years. The valley walls are scoured and rounded, with long, shining slabs, and in places, the road passes beneath great domes of stone. It is a landscape of stern beauty, with little vegetation, only a few stunted pines and clumps of alpine flowers clinging to cracks. Waterfalls run down the cliffs after rain.
For the rider, this stretch of the Grimsel road is a classic. The road climbs in long, steady bends along the valley, passing through short galleries and across bridges, with the Aare roaring beside you. The surface is generally good, the corners are open, and the gradient is moderate. The traffic includes buses and campers, and the narrow sections need patience. Rockfall can occur after heavy rain, and the road is closed in winter.
A small restaurant and cafe at Handeck serve food and drink, and the terrace is a pleasant place for a pause. Wear a warm layer, because the air here, in the shadow of the cliffs, is cool and damp. If the weather is clear, take a few moments to listen to the water.