Port Campbell is a small fishing village in a cove, where a creek cuts a notch in the limestone cliffs, and it is the natural base for the Shipwreck Coast. The jetty and the little beach are protected from the Southern Ocean, and the main street has a few cafes, a pub and a general store. A few hundred people live here, and Timboon is the nearest sizeable village inland.
The coast around the town is full of dramatic scenery. A few kilometres east is Loch Ard Gorge, named after an iron clipper that wrecked on the reef in 1878 on its voyage from England. Only two people survived: a young ship's apprentice, Tom Pearce, who was washed into the gorge, and a young woman, Eva Carmichael, whom he rescued and carried to safety. Their story is told on the signs along the walk. London Bridge, a rock arch that once connected to the cliff, fell into the sea in 1990, stranding two tourists on the outer section who had to be rescued by helicopter.
The road along this part of the coast is straight and open, running through windswept farmland with a few gentle curves, and the sea is a mix of blue, green and white. The cliffs are cut by gorges and blowholes, and a walk along the clifftops to view the arches and stacks is easy from the car parks. The wind is strong and constant, and a visor and a good jacket are essential.
Port Campbell has a petrol station and a small supermarket, and it is the best place for fuel and a meal between Apollo Bay and Warrnambool. Fish and chips from the shop near the jetty are a local tradition. Accommodation is limited and in demand, so book ahead in summer. The road is open all year, but winter brings storms with huge waves and sometimes closures, and the best months for a ride are February to April.