The Twelve Apostles were never twelve, and there are not even that many now. The limestone stacks rising from the Southern Ocean off the Port Campbell coast were once called the Sow and Piglets, then renamed to attract tourists, and there were never more than nine. One collapsed in 2005 in front of watching visitors, leaving seven. They stand a short way offshore, golden and pink in the evening light, with waves breaking at their feet. Port Campbell is a short ride to the west.
The stacks are the remains of cliffs, carved by wind and waves over millions of years. The soft limestone erodes at the base, forming caves and arches that eventually collapse, leaving the stacks isolated in the sea, and the process continues, so that the coastline here is always changing. A boardwalk leads from the car park to the viewing platforms, and in the quieter hours of early morning or evening the place is magical, with the sun low and the sea turning gold. Helicopter flights operate from a nearby base, and the noise can intrude.
The Great Ocean Road here is a gentler affair than the Otways section, running over flat farmland with long straights and open bends, and the wind is a constant. The surface is good, and the speed limits are strictly enforced. The coast is wild, with cliffs falling away on the south side, and a ride along it in the morning mist is atmospheric.
The site is busy for most of the day, with coaches arriving in numbers, so mornings and late afternoons are best. A visitor centre has a cafe and toilets, and motorcycle parking is easy. The weather is changeable, with a cold wind off the Southern Ocean even in summer, so bring a layer. The road is open all year, and the best season for clear skies is late summer and autumn.