Omeo is a small town on the far side of the Alps, in a basin of dry, open hills that feels like another country after the high forest. It grew up in the gold rush of the 1850s, when thousands of miners worked the creeks, and its heritage buildings, including a courthouse, a hotel and a row of old shopfronts, reflect those boom years. Omeo's name comes from an Aboriginal word, said to mean mountains or hills, and the town has been a meeting place between the alpine country and the lowlands for much longer than the gold rush.
The ride in from Hotham is a descent through a series of long bends, dropping from the snow gums into dry woodland and then open grazing country. The surface is good, the corners are fast and flowing, and the views open out to the plains of Gippsland. In summer, bushfires have affected the area, so check conditions, and in winter, ice may linger on shaded corners. Early morning light on the hills is excellent, and traffic is light.
The history of the area is layered. Aboriginal people of the Gunaikurnai and Ngarigo groups have lived here for thousands of years, and the high country was an important summer meeting ground. In the nineteenth century, the town was a centre for miners, cattle drovers and farmers, and a rough reputation for violence. Today it has a quiet, friendly feel, with a small museum and a few craft shops.
Omeo is small, with only a few hundred residents, but it has the essentials for a rider. There is a fuel station, a pub, a bakery and a general store, and a few places to stay. Do not count on a wide choice, and avoid arriving too late in the evening, because services close early. A pie or sandwich from the bakery, eaten on the verge with a view of the hills, is a good way to refuel.
The road continues south through the Tambo Valley and then on to the Gippsland plains and the coast. The change in scenery is dramatic, from alpine to pastoral to coastal, within a few hours. Keep an eye out for kangaroos at dusk, and carry a spare layer for the cool evening air.