Greek cemetery is what the name means, and you will find the same name attached to old graveyards across the mountains of Bosnia and Montenegro. For generations, local people attributed the mysterious carved tombstones of the medieval period to the Greeks, a vague term for ancient or foreign peoples, because nobody remembered who had made them. In fact, these stećci were carved by the medieval communities of the region between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries, and the groups that bear the name Grčko groblje are among the many sites included in the UNESCO listing.
This particular site lies in rugged country near the meeting point of Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro, close to Šćepan Polje, where the rivers Tara and Piva join to form the Drina. The landscape is extraordinary: deep canyons, rushing rivers, steep forested slopes and high limestone mountains. Just to the north lies the Sutjeska National Park, with the Perućica forest, one of the last primeval forests in Europe, and Maglić, the highest peak in Bosnia and Herzegovina, right on the border.
For riders, the road through the Piva canyon is the star of the region. Running from Plužine towards Šćepan Polje along the shores of the Piva reservoir, it passes through a long series of rough-hewn tunnels cut into the rock, many of them unlit and narrow, with dramatic views over the turquoise water between them. It is an unforgettable ride, but it demands caution: the tunnels are dark, the surface can be wet and uneven, and oncoming vehicles appear suddenly. Use your lights and take your time.
The Tara and the Drina are famous for whitewater rafting, and there are several rafting camps around Šćepan Polje and Foča, offering food, accommodation and trips down the river in summer. Foča, about nineteen kilometres away, is the nearest larger town, with fuel and services, while Plužine, on the Montenegrin side, has a few shops, restaurants and a petrol station. The border crossing at Šćepan Polje is small and can be slow. Bring your documents, check insurance cover for both countries, and allow time. The weather is mountain weather, with hot days, cold nights and sudden storms.