In Spain, the wettest place is in the south. That surprises people who think of Andalusia as a land of endless sun, but the Sierra de Grazalema catches the Atlantic weather as it comes in from the Gulf of Cádiz and forces it upwards, and the result is the highest rainfall in the country, with well over two metres in an ordinary year. The village of Grazalema sits in the middle of this, at the foot of a limestone crag, a cluster of white houses with red-tiled roofs, balconies with geraniums, and a small square with a church. The surrounding natural park protects one of the last forests of Spanish fir, the pinsapo, an ancient tree that survived the ice ages in these damp mountains and nowhere else.
You get to it by climbing, and that is why people ride here. From Ronda the road twists up through oak and rock, with views across deep valleys, and the surface is generally good, though it can be wet and slippery after rain. From the other side the road crosses high passes with long open bends and griffon vultures circling on the thermals, and drops down towards the dam at Zahara, where the water is a startling turquoise. Mist often fills the hollows in winter and spring, and in summer the heat is dry and the air smells of thyme and rosemary.
Grazalema has a quiet craft tradition. It has for centuries made woollen blankets and ponchos on old looms, and shops in the village still sell them. The region is also known for its goat cheese, Payoyo, which is excellent, and for hearty mountain cooking, including stews and game. Cheese and a cold beer on the square make a satisfying stop.
Ronda is the place to fill up, or Ubrique, a leather-working town to the south, and carry enough to cover the mountain loop. Spring, when the hills are green and the wild flowers are out, and October are the best times to ride. In winter, check for fog and ice, and in August expect crowds on weekends.