The northern side of the Gran Sasso looks like a different mountain from the southern one. Here, on the Teramo side, the slopes are steeper, greener and wetter, the villages cling to ridges, and the great rock face of the Corno Grande rises abruptly above forest and meadow. On a clear morning, the view from the road stretches in two directions, up to the pale wall of limestone and down to the foothills rolling toward the Adriatic, which shows as a thin silver line far to the east.
Isola del Gran Sasso is the nearby town, and it is better known than its size suggests. Above it stands the sanctuary of San Gabriele dell'Addolorata, a modern pilgrimage site that draws large numbers of visitors every year, especially on feast days, when the roads fill with coaches and cars. A short distance away, villages such as Pietracamela, high on the mountainside, preserve stone houses and steep lanes, and the ski area of Prati di Tivo lies above them. Below, in the valley of the Vomano, the town of Montorio al Vomano offers a more ordinary mix of shops and cafés.
The riding on this side is more tightly wound. The roads wind up through beech and oak forest, with narrow bends and a surface that varies from smooth to patched, and hairpins that need care when the road is wet. Traffic is light, apart from weekends and pilgrimage days, and the climb is rewarded with open views as the trees fall away. The Gran Sasso road tunnel, one of the longest in Europe, runs under the mountain, but the old road over the top is the better way to see it.
The wildlife here is notable. The Apennine chamois, once nearly extinct, has been reintroduced in the park, and wolves and brown bears live in the wider region, though you are unlikely to see them from the saddle. Eagles patrol the cliffs, and in spring the slopes are full of birdsong.
Fuel is available at Montorio al Vomano, about fifteen kilometres away, and in Isola del Gran Sasso, which is smaller. Higher up the road there is nothing, so fill up beforehand. Small restaurants in the villages serve local dishes, such as pasta with lamb sauce, grilled meats and soft cheeses, but they often close in the afternoon and on weekdays out of season.
Weather changes fast, and cloud can swallow the road in minutes. Take a rain layer and warm clothing, and enjoy the high air.