Sarmizegetusa Regia was the capital of the Dacian kings, built high in the Orăștie mountains in the first century BC and the first century AD, and it is one of the most atmospheric ruins in Europe. A fortress of stone blocks, a sacred precinct of circular and rectangular temples, and terraces for houses and workshops were laid out on a series of platforms among beech forest, at an altitude of around 1,200 metres. The sanctuary is the star, with rings of stone bases and wooden posts, and a large circular platform of andesite stones that may have worked as a calendar or a place for ritual. Cut stones and finely made tiles show Greek and Roman influence.
King Decebalus made the Dacian kingdom a serious rival to Rome, and Trajan fought two wars against him, in 101 to 102 and 105 to 106. In the second war the Romans besieged and took the fortress, and Decebalus took his own life rather than be paraded in triumph. The scenes are shown in spiralling relief on Trajan's Column in Rome, which is the best record of the war. The Romans then built a new capital, Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa, in the Hațeg basin, and the mountain stronghold was abandoned. The site is part of the Dacian Fortresses of the Orăștie Mountains, a World Heritage group since 1999.
The road is the adventure. From Orăștie, you wind up the valley through Costești and Grădiștea de Munte, into steep forested hills, on narrow asphalt that gets rougher near the top. There are tight bends, sudden gravel patches and plenty of cattle. Rain brings mud and fog, and winter can close the upper section with snow. It is a slow, pretty ride, and the last stretch, near the ruins, is a car park with walking paths.
Food is limited, so bring a picnic. Come on a clear day in late spring or early autumn, and expect the temperature to be much cooler than in the valley. A short walk from the car park leads up to the sanctuary.